Uniqlo and Lemaire

This past summer I dreamt of a robe-type coat for winter. It was boiling hot, people were stinking in the subway -myself included- but the only thing that I was thinking about was a burrito type coat, that you could fold in over and over, creating layers of visual deliciousness.
A belted coat with a moderate length.
And then I found it.
And it's navy. Of course it is.
It's by Cristophe Lemaire for Uniqlo.
I confess I am not a huge fan of designer collaborations for fast fashion retailers, but with this one in particular I was actually super thrilled and excited.It seemed so wacky but at the same time so natural. When such a nice store like Uniqlo teams up with everyone's favorite designer you just get super curious and excited. How couldn't we, right?
Here's my verdict.
Model: When I tried it on for the first time I felt a bit insecure. I usually tend to navigate towards other more fitted and tailored styles, but after wearing it around a few times, looking in the mirror, opening it and folding it, I surprisingly felt rather comfortable and modern-
It's also revealing itself a great versatile option. You can dress it down - I like to pair it with vintage New Balance 991 or vintage Reeboks.Or you can make it look extra suave, Maryam Nassir Zadeh-esque by matching it with a great color popping knit, high wasted jeans and cool, offbeat colored shoes.
Fabric: The fabric is a wonderful cashmere wool blend, and it has a pretty decent  quality for its price tag. It's very light. It's not at all  like those coats that drag you in the pavement, that weight a ton and make you hunch like Quasimodo. It's a very light, airy and cool winter coat.
Sizing: Even though I bought the XS,  I do feel the fabric swapping over me a bit , in a good, candle light and blankets sort of way. At first I had mixed feelings about the sizing  but after all I came to conclusion that feeling weird  at first can turn out to be a wonderful thing later.
Favorite details: The collar. It's generous and elongates the neckline. And the slim belt. Big plus onthe slim belt.

monday favorites | “Who’s Hot—Who’s Not”

/// Christophe Lemaire S/S 16 hair.
Lemaire. Just by reading this surname we sigh.I usually pronounce it slowly. Some say "Om", I say "Le-mai-re eee". It's my mantra these days. Irony aside, the S/S16  Pre-Raphaelite hair was  everything when matched with his take on volume and color.

/// Barbara Kasten (b.1936) artwork.
 Transposition 4, 2014
Studio Construct 1, 2007
Construct VI-B, 1981
Construct I D, 1979

/// Perfect outfit at The Mercantile
Elastic 90s Donald J. Pliner type boots? Checked.
A good mineral-color sweater? Checked.
Revamped vintage denim? Checked.
/// The Martiniano bootie. Licious.

/// Christina Vantzou  is a composer, artist, and videomaker based in Brussels, Belgium. This October was Nº3's Shadow Sun debut (Kranky Records).The video was made with a phantom high-speed camera,featuring a scarf, creepy twins and a large rubber band. Watch it here.
/// Damaris Goddrie for J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall 2015
This woman  seriously wants to makes me chop my hair off.
/// Recipe for a busy woman.
Glass noodles at Clyde

A conversation with Giuliana Leila Raggiani

giu giu SS16

Created by Giuliana Leila Raggiani, New York based giu giu, is inspired by the simplicity of natural textures, collage, travels and exploration. giu giu is a knitwear-focused label conveying the playful humor and offbeat freedom that life should embody despite one's age or gender.
Please explain your creative process when you start designing a collection. What is usually the starting point?
It really varies each season, but I think I'm most receptive to color and texture. It's usually a specific shade I stumble upon that strikes me a certain way.  Then the palette and inspiration develops from there. 
Beautiful detail shown here at  giu giu SS16.

Tell us more about your AW 15 collection. Where did you find inspiration?
From all over. The color direction was inspired by Gustav Klimt's " Le Tre Età Della Donna" (1905) - a piece that holds much sentimental value for me. I grew up in intensive ballet, so the silhouettes of collaging delicate fine gauge with chunky knit layering were inspired by the "off-stage" dancer, conveying that laid-back, almost accidental aesthetic.
At the same time, ballet movement carries such a poised and perfect quality, so the matching sets gave this collection some structure and linearity. The stitches and patterns in the textiles were inspired by a new meditative doodling technique I've been practicing called "zentangling." 
Giu Giu AW15
Can you please tell us a little about your philosphy on beauty, style and well being.
It may sound cliche but I really do believe "beauty is in the eye of the beholder." A person's perspective is completely unique, which is amazing. Bending rules amuses me and the unexpected tends to grasp my attention. High fashion is often viewed as this pretentious thing, so I like to create quality garments that are beautiful, yet inspired by something comical or seemingly "ugly." Contrast is important to me. It helps me stay neutral. 
Do you have a uniform you tend to wear daily?
The cashmere/cotton knit suit-sets are my usual go-to. It's like baby clothing for adults, which is really the ideal uniform. Being comfortable is rule number one. 

Pas de Deux is ballet allusive and is a sleeveless jumpsuit (convertible roll-down top)
What are the things that are upsetting you in the world right now? And what are the things that are making you happy?
Negativity and closed mindedness is an epidemic, which in general over time has steered us into a direction of lack of peace. It all stems from the basic concept of choosing fear over love. On the positive side, I do feel our generation is turning a new leaf. As we become more creative, we become more accepting. There are less boundaries and "rules" these days, and I'm constantly meeting people all over the world that follow this mentality. It makes me happy and hopeful. 
 All photos by Kara Kochalko
giu giu website and online shop

it takes time

But not that much,
To enjoy a five-ingredient homemade Chai latte.
/black tea+cardamom pods+sliced fresh ginger+water+almond milk/
To cut your own hair.
Or to let it grow.
It takes some time,
To paint your finger nails in Mermaid  Barbie pink.
It takes time but not that much
To play with light and shadows.
To come to surface and to dive into water again.
Miharu Koshi - Scandal Night (1983)

The Gentlewoman Magazine

a conversation with marie jacotey

Marie Jacotey-Voyatzis, was born in Paris but moved to London to continue her studies where she earned her MA in Printmaking, at the Royal College of Art.
Just a few days away before the opening of the exhibition Everything I used to love about us is dead  at the Hannah Barry Gallery in London, Marie took some time off to answer a few questions on her creative process, materials selection and other aspects of her work.

Please explain your creative process when starting a piece. What is the starting point?

I take notes everyday – written and drawn – about anything really, a funny story, a nice pattern, some piece of furniture I liked (I’d like to own but can’t afford for instance ☺), nice coffee cups and so on. From those snatches, some become obsessive and trigger the idea for a new piece of work whether it being a book or an installation.

What materials do you use? Was there a gradual transformation in terms of the choice of your materials that led you to where you are as an artist now?

I use all sort of different materials that allow me to work on a flat surface basically. I’d go from using coloured pencils on a simple sheet of paper to use them on plaster boards, or using oil painting onto plastic dustsheets or onto aluminium boards. I guess as a younger child I would mainly draw on paper, then, when I entered art schools my technical vocabulary spread. This stated, I wouldn’t say there is any ‘gradual’ transformation in terms of my choice of materials. I tend to jump from one medium to another in a random way, according to the kind of work I am planning to realize and according to my attraction for some particular techniques over certain periods of time.

1 . Studio detail 2. 3. Work in progress. 4. Marie Jacotey working in her studio.
Text in your work has a very strong component. When looking at your work we get lost in a mood, sometimes induced by the use of text. Is text used as an interpretation aid for the viewer or does it have another function?
I guess the text is there as a comment of the image, yes. It is used to lead the viewer into the picture, very much so like in comics or humor drawings, it should add a layer in the narrative I suppose. This said not all of my work contains text; some images don’t need it.

Regarding your use of colour, the palette is very bold, very intense. What leads you to that palette choice?

I love colors and my palette tends to change regularly. It is pretty much an intuitive choice that I make whilst composing the drawing.

From a contemporary perspective, your work comes as very striking, because it’s very honest, very intelligent. You perfectly depict this fragmented, Tumblr-esque 21st century we live in, both from the female as well from the male perspective. In your work we catch glimpses of our modern, fragmented relationships with the self and with the others. Where do you get your inspiration from?

Well thanks. I do get my inspiration from social networks and blogs a lot, the accessible imagery on those is unlimited and fascinating, but not only. I get influenced by all sorts of things really from painting, literature, cinema, design, fashion, architecture to rather mundane stuff like a conversation with friends, a party, the view from my window. Anything would do!

Dying on a Sunday

Where can we see your work in the coming months?
I have a solo show opening on the 9th September in London at Hannah Barry Gallery titled Everything I used to love about us is dead where I will be showing a new cycle of about 30 drawings made for an artist book that is to be launched then as well. The book is also available to purchase online on common-editions website (http://common-editions.com) and will be presented on few other occasions in London (at the London Book Fair at the Whitechapel gallery on the 11th and at Tender books on the 29th) and Paris (venues TBC) – and we are also currently searching for some more venues abroad so I’ll keep you updated! Other than this, I am working on series of images for different brands and magazines, I should be posting about those latter soon on my tumblr page: mariejacotey.tumblr.com. It is all very exciting!

Can you please tell us a little about your philosophy on beauty, style and well being.

I wish I could! I don’t think I have any philosophy on those specific subjects. Do what you want, feel good, be happy, party loads and work hard. Twee advice for a wonderful life!

Photos by Hannah Thual
Find Marie Jacotey on Tumblr


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